There and Back Again: An Adventurer’s Tale of New Zealand [PART 2]
View of Hobbiton
Spending a month traversing the coasts and mountains of New Zealand was one of the most incredible experiences of my life. I spent a week and a half in the South Island before experiencing the North Island for the remainder of the time. See my post previous post, New Zealand PART 1, to read about my adventures in the South Island. Read below for my travel itinerary in the North Island.
Wellington
After a beautiful ferry crossing from the South Island, I arrived in Wellington, the windy and bustling capital city of New Zealand. It had a different feeling from any of the other cities I visited in the country so far and I loved it! It felt like a smaller San Francisco, spread out along the coast on hills that made for perfect sight-seeing over the city.
As mentioned in my previous post about New Zealand, I consider myself an 8/10 fan of Lord of the Rings. However, throughout the trip, any time I knew movie trivia or got excited about seeing something from them, my travel partner would tease me that I’m “such a 10”—especially on our second day in Wellington, when we visited the Weta Workshop where the movies were created!
When I got to Weta Cave (the souvenir shop before the tour), I posed in front of the life-size trolls outside and then wandered inside and explored the little shop filled with LOTR figurines, trinkets, and replica props.
Groups aren’t allowed to take pictures on the actual tour, but I enjoyed seeing displays of real props from the many movies the studio worked on, from Lord of the Rings to Matrix to Avatar and more. The tour was informative and provided interesting behind-the-scenes tidbits. It ended with a presentation from an actual artist who works on the films, which was really cool! Before leaving, I stopped by Weta Cave one more time and purchased a mystery box full of surprise LOTR gifts.
Te Papa is a free museum that explores the history of New Zealand. The exhibits were interactive and really came to life! I loved learning about New Zealand’s part in WWI, seeing dozens of native New Zealand species, and seeing modern Maori art. I also visited their special ticketed exhibit, Alice in Wonderland, decorated with colorful walls and tons of memorabilia from the many movies and literature that are based on the books. Overall, the museum was really well done and comparable in quality to the Smithsonian museums in Washington, D.C.
I ended my day visiting the red Wellington cable car that leads to incredible views over the city. The ride itself was very short and not worth the money if you’re fine walking up a steep hill instead, but I loved the views from the top. I walked through the botanic garden, seeing unique plants in whimsical shapes and colors, until dusk.
Mount Victoria Trails & LOTR Locations
My last day in Wellington was full of more views over Wellington and more LOTR locations. I started the day picking up a rental car from JUCY (I was finally free from relying on buses and Uber, but had to adjust to driving on the left side of the road for the first time), and then driving a bit out of town to Rivendell.
I have to say, as an “8”, Rivendell, a location where elves live in LOTR, was disappointing. Nothing was left there from the movies and it was barely recognizable as Rivendell. However, there were a few later additions to the park that alluded to where shooting the scenes happened, so it may not be a total waste of time for fans of the movies who would really like to see it.
Later in the day I drove up to the top of Mount Victoria. This hill provides incredible views of the entire city and out into the ocean. The best part was that it barely required any walking to get 360 degree views!
While I was up there I scouted out another LOTR location—a hole on the side of a dirt path where the hobbits hid from danger. It was fun to find and then to sit on a nearby bench with a plaque that read, “if I take one more step it will be the furthest away from home I’ve ever been,” spoken by Samwise Gamgee at the beginning of their adventure. Those words are the inspiration for my travel blog, One More Step, because it shows what we can accomplish and learn and experience when we have the courage to step away from home and explore the world.
Tongariro National Park & Taupo
My first big road trip in my rental car was from Wellington to Turangi, a small town that sits between the large Taupo Lake and the expansive volcanoes of Tongariro National Park.
I spent a lovely day on the lake, kayaking to Maori rock carvings and eating lunch along the shore. I then visited the stunning Huka Falls with the bluest water I have ever seen! They are easily accessible and such an incredible sight to behold. Nearby, I visited Spa Park, a natural hot spring, recommended to me by a local. They were warm and pretty and very popular.
The next day, I headed to Tongariro National Park to get a closer look at Mount Doom, where Frodo destroys the ring in LOTR. On the way, I took a short hike to Gollum’s Pool from one of the movies, and then rode the Whakapapa gondola up the mountain. I was chagrined to learn that after the gondola ride there was still a steep, 1-2 hour hike to see views of Mount Doom. Ill-prepared, I walked up the sandy trail, step by shade-less step, until I finally saw the valley and volcano spread out before me. Fortunately, it was worth it because coming back down the mountain was just as hard and slippery.
Rotorua
I spent the next several days in the adventurous town, Rotorua. I had lots of activities planned there and were excited to get started, so I took off early in the morning and headed towards Wai-O-Tapu.
Every morning at 10am in Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, the Lady Knox Geyser draws in a large crowd to watch it erupt. I was excited to see my first geyser in person, but a little disappointed to learn that the experience was simulated by employees pouring baking soda into the geyser to make it erupt. After that experience, I walked around the rest of the park. It was super crowded, smelly, and had a lot of stairs, but there were still unique features I enjoyed, like the bright green pond, bubbling mud pools, and steaming craters in the ground.
On the edge of town is an enchanting forest full of redwood and fern trees. Suspension bridges have been secured high in the trees, making for a fun way to walk through the forest. I visited during the day with a good view of the surrounding forest and during the night when the trees and large lanterns are lit up. I loved both experiences, but the night seemed just a little more magical.
Another Rotorua experience I had high up in the trees was a canopy tour, which reminded me of my first time ziplining in a rainforest in Costa Rica. I set out in a native New Zealand forest with two guides and a small group, zipping along lines high in the air. The guides were great, making us feel safe and ensuring we had a good time. They even provided free pictures, let us feed native birds with special permission from the government, and showed us traps they set for bird predators to conserve the native bird population.
After back to back adventures I needed a small break, so I headed to Polynesian Spa. I splurged on the deluxe lake spa package, which includes free use of a locker, heated recliners, and five quiet hot pools of varying temperatures. One of the pools even contained mineral water from a legendary hot spring with healing powers attributed to it. I spent way longer there than I thought I would and enjoyed every minute—I guess I really did need some relaxation and peace!
One of the things that drew me most to Rotorua was to try ZORBing. Basically, it’s getting inside a giant hamster ball with water in it and rolling down large hills! It was a blast! I experienced two hills, one straight down and the other in a zigzag, and laughed the entire time. The facility had a fun atmosphere, too, with a hot tub to wait in until your turn and upbeat music blasting the whole time.
When visiting New Zealand, I wanted to get a taste of the Maori culture, so I booked a tour for one of the villages in Rotorua. The tour showed us around a living village, complete with geothermal cooking and bathing, Polynesian dancing, and Maori art and architecture. It was interesting and informative, but I wished it was more interactive and lively. However, it was a good end to my time in Rotorua. I was quite ready for another adventure, so I got up early the next morning and headed to the highlight of my trip—Hobbiton.
Visiting Hobbiton was a dream come true and every part of my time there was as magical as I hoped. Although there are a few things that could make it an even more immersive experience, just being there was enough for me. The drive through Matamata was peaceful—very little traffic, bucolic pastures filled with sheep and cows, and sounds of birds tweeting in the soft yellow sun. It felt lazy and carefree—just like The Shire on a bright spring morning!
After arriving at the souvenir shop, I promptly hopped on a tour bus to The Shire. They played scenes from the movies until we reached the location where Frodo sees Gandalf riding into town in the Fellowship of the Ring. It was a beautiful moment, shortly followed by pulling up to a sign for Hobbiton and then walking a path to the first hobbit hole.
For the next 45 minutes or so, I took dozens of pictures of hobbit holes, miniature props and adorable details that made the story come alive. The tour guide took pictures of me in front of a hobbit hole and then we finally reached Frodo’s/Bilbo’s home, followed by Sam’s home and then the party tree. It was so surreal and exciting to finally see it all in person!
The tour ended with ginger beer at the Green Dragon and a lunch buffet in the party tent. It was some of the best food I had in New Zealand (which, honestly, the country disappointed me with its cuisine, but this lunch was great). After lunch, I bought a few more LOTR souvenirs and then hit the road for the longest (and prettiest) drive yet—north of Auckland to the small town of Tutukaka.
Tutukaka
Tutukaka is not a town on most people’s radar, but I discovered it for its proximity to Poor Knight’s Island—acclaimed as the best spot to SCUBA dive in New Zealand! I learned to SCUBA dive the summer before, but hadn’t been diving in the ocean yet, so I knew I had to experience it there.
Unfortunately, the weather was not on my side for my first day in Tutukaka. It was too windy and rainy to take a boat to the islands, so the trip was canceled. I had flashbacks of when my Milford Sound tour was canceled and almost felt defeated, but by some miracle, I was able to switch plans and go diving the next day.
That day, instead of my planned SCUBA trip, I headed an hour north to Kawiti Glow Worm Caves. I loved learning more about the glowworms (apparently their fishing lines are toxic and several of them could kill you if they fall in your mouth) and being able to experience their blue glow again. I ended the day at the beautiful and secluded Whale Beach and then ate a delicious meal at my hotel’s restaurant (I still can’t get over the fried baked potatoes).
The next morning I headed to Dive! Tutukaka, got dive gear, and made my way onto the boat. They warned us all that the ride to the islands would be rocky and we might get seasick, but the dive spot itself would be calm and great for diving. Well, that was all true. The waves were higher than the boat and I had to hold on to the sides to not slide around. I noticed at some point that most people on the boat had paper bags and later heard half the boat got sick…
Despite the boat ride, my diving experience was the best I’ve had so far! I went in a group of four, including my guide, and saw tons of fish, an eel, starfish, and even a sea turtle. We then drove around in the boat, going into a sea cave, hearing stories from the skipper about the islands, and seeing rocky archways. Luckily the waves calmed down for the trip back to Tutukaka.
Auckland Part 2
I drove the rest of the afternoon back to Auckland. I spent my very first day in New Zealand in Auckland, going to the top of the Sky Tower and eating ice cream at Giapo (see more about my first day in my NZ PART 1 blog), so the last few days included everything else I wanted to see in the city.
About 45 minutes west of Auckland is a large stretch of black sand beaches. I visited Piha Beach, which quickly became one of my all time favorite beaches. The shallow water sprawled out far into the ocean, providing plenty of room for beachgoers to jump waves and some were even learning to surf on one end of the beach. I also explored the rocks surrounding the beach and found a tunnel full of crabs, sea snails, and starfish that I easily could have spent hours exploring.
Cathedral Cove & Hot Water Beach
While staying in Auckland, I took a two hour drive to the Coromandel region and visited its most famous landmark: Cathedral Cove. This beautiful rock formation sits across the shore and makes for a great picture. To reach it, I parked across town at the only parking lot and walked to the trailhead. The trail was then another 30 minutes long until I reached the famous spot, took some pictures, and swam in the water.
On the way back to my car, I stopped at Gemstone Bay and snorkeled in the marine reserve, a designated snorkeling area with signs about what type of sea creatures you can find there. I saw a few fish swimming throughout the reefs and enjoyed the cool water. I then drove 15 minutes away to Hot Water Beach where people bring their own shovels and dig holes along the shore to find hot water and create their own hot tub. I only sat in lukewarm water and got really dirty trying, so I didn’t stay long.
Back in Auckland, I visited a unique museum, showcasing the maritime history of New Zealand. It was cool seeing the huge sailboats and making my own virtual race boat! I also experienced life as an immigrant to New Zealand and as a Kiwi through the decades.
My very last day in New Zealand was rainy and not very eventful. I decided to hike up Mount Eden because it was close to where I stayed. I left all my stuff in the car (including jackets and water), thinking it would be a short walk to the top. Well, halfway up the trail it started pouring rain, so I spent a lot of time hiding under a shady tree. When it let up I continued to the top and took in the views over the city, as well as views of a crater that was once an active volcano. It rained some more on the way down, but I still enjoyed my last experience in New Zealand.
For anyone thinking of traveling to New Zealand, I would highly recommend it! It is a gorgeous country with so much to offer. Add it to your bucket list and take whatever your next step is to get there and make memories abroad!